Many restaurants use stock to braise their ingredients or to make sauce with. In my kitchen, I almost never use stock either to braise with or to make sauce, the main reason being that bones are very expensive and time consuming. I mostly use jus, which is a completely different technique and gets very good results if you know how to balance your sauce and your food cost will not be affected by having to buy bones.
If I do choose to use bones, what is the correct technique for making stock?
Most people learn to roast the veal bones first, add their mirepoix and tomato paste, continue roasting for colour, and then bring it all to a boil in a stock pot. When the stock comes to a boil, the impurities are skimmed off the top, and then it gets turned down to a low simmer and is left on over night.
This technique will intensify the bitter flavour of the veal stock and when used in a dish with other types of meat other than veal, such as venison, quail or rabbit, it will camouflage the flavour of those meats and the dominant flavour will be from the veal stock.
My Technique for Making Veal Stock
1. Without roasting the bones, bring them to a boil and skim the blood from the top of the stock.
2. While the stock is still boiling, add the mirepoix and the tomato paste. The tomato paste will give it the desired dark brown colour after it has been reduced.
3. Simmer the stock for four hours and then strain it.
4. Re-use the bones to make a remouillage by refilling the pot with water and simmering the bones for another four hours, while still skimming the top.
5. Combine the original stock with the remouillage and reduce this approximately by half to achieve the desired gelatinous consistency, which will then be used as a braising liquid or the binding ingredient in a sauce.
Example: Rabbit Sauce
To make the rabbit sauce, start by roasting the bones in a pan. When they are a rich brown colour add the mirepoix and continue to roast until the mirepoix is roasted as well. Deglaze the pan with a liquid such as red wine, then add the half-reduced veal stock. This will be the binding ingredient. Continue to simmer for one hour, strain and then reduce to the desired consistency. The final step is to properly balance the sauce.
By roasting the rabbit bones first, this will be the dominant flavour that comes out in the sauce. The veal stock is only used to bind the sauce and because the bones were not roasted, only simmered, the flavour of the veal is almost non-existent.
Jus are very important in my kitchen, they are very flavor full and easy to make. First of all, jus are made from scarps of meat or from braising liquid. How to make a jus.
1.brown the scraps of the meat in a pan or rondo
2.deglaze with wine
4.cover with water
5.bring to simmer
6.simmer for one hour
7.straine with fine chinois
8.then do the binding of the jus so it become a sauce
9.balance the sauce
For a braising liquid when you meat is cook to perfection, you have to do step 7-9 then repute the sauce on top of the meat and vegetable so it doesn’t dry out.
To lier in French or binding jus or braising liquid I use either, corn starch, potatoes starch, roux and blood animal, depending on what I’m making for what result I want.
I always use a roux for white sauce never for a dark sauce because you will lose the nice darkness of the sauce, basically you will discolor your sauce. For dark sauce, I use the three order one to keep the nice shiny dark color.
Roux- béchamel, blanquette de veau, new England clam chowder, chicken pot pie, etch
Blood- duck civet, venison civet, etch
Potatoes starch- what I will usually served with potatoes, boeuf bourguignon, lamb stew, red wine sauce, perigourdine sauce, etch
Corn starch- mostly bird dish and bird sauce because they usually feed birds with corn, coq au vin, etch